Tuesday, November 13, 2007

A small miracle

The tale of Sammy the simakobu:
It happened last Tuesday. I was at camp, having given up on the morning after sitting in the rain for about 7 hours and losing the monkeys I was attempting to habituate. My guide and I were just getting ready to head back out in hopes for a more productive afternoon when we received radio contact from the forest. One of the guides had discovered a baby simakobu on the ground in the same area we had been following monkeys earlier that morning. We instructed our informant not to touch the monkey, and we immediately grabbed our boots and ran to his location. As I approached, my heart sank as I could see he was a very small and weak animal who could barely muster the strength to cry. I began inspecting him for injuries or trauma, when I noticed that he had some small yellow specks in his hair. I initially mistook them for plant material, but soon realized that they were eggs of the large flies that were incessantly swarming around his tiny little head. The local people explained to me that these eggs would quickly hatch and that the monkey would be dead in a day once the maggots emerged and began feeding on his flesh. I decided to give him a fighting chance at survival and with a rubber glove, some antiseptic wipes and a small pair of scissors (all part of my first aid kit!), I began removing the eggs from his head and back (he was literally COVERED in these things). Once I had cleaned him of as many eggs as I could, I left him in the spot where we found him in hopes that his mother would return and retrieve him. That night, I had difficulty sleeping, imagining him alone in the cold wet night, without his mother and extremely vulnerable to nocturnal predators. So the next morning, when I returned to the tree where I had left him the night before, I expected to find either the body of a dead monkey or no monkey at all. I had not even considered the possibility that we might find him alive, so when I discovered him sitting quietly amongst some leaves, I didn't know what to do. I realized that I had 2 choices: leave him there to die, as it was clear that his mother was not going to retrieve him; or bring him back to camp and try to care for him. This was not a decision I took lightly, since I knew that caring for a 1-month-old monkey would be a full-time job and one that (if he survived) could last for 1 or 2 years. But I could not simply leave this pitiful creature alone to die a stressful and painful death, so I decided I had to do all I could to save him from this fate. As soon as I had him back to camp, I immediately offered him something to eat, since he surely hadn't eaten anything for at least 15 hours. He ate a little and then I spent the next 2 hours removing all the maggots that had hatched on his body and which had already opened sores in his flesh. Unfortunately, this was the very day that I was leaving Siberut to return to Bogor to renew my visa, so I didn't have much time to arrange for his care before I had to depart. But it was clear that he would have plenty of caretakers and we had already "ordered" some infant formula to be delivered later that afternoon, so I felt reasonably certain he would be cared for. I spent the next 5 days worrying about little Sammy until we received word from the station that he is alive and well, feeding regularly and adjusting to his new life--What a relief! During my time on the mainland I have acquired volumes of information and advice and have bought all the supplies we will need to care for him for several months to come. I hope to introduce him to a small group of juvenile males who live in the area immediately surrounding our camp, which should make a suitable family for him once he is ready. It will be a long and challenging process to return this little guy to the wild, but I am hoping for the best!


















This is how I found the little guy: cold, wet and alone. You can see one of the horrible flies on his head.


















All cleaned up and regaining some strength after a meal.















We're thrilled to see the little guy adjusting to his new life.

Monday, July 30, 2007

2.2 seconds of fame


Check this out to see the Prince of Monaco's visit to Siberut (in the second half of video). If you don't blink, you may even catch a glimpse of me watching monkeys!
http://www.fondationprincealbertiidemonaco.net/actualite.asp?idactu=4

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Isn't research fun?!

A quick vent about my day that will give the reader a glimpse of the life of a researcher...

I woke up at 6:45 this morning in order to make it to an 8am appointment at the NY Passport Agency (more on this later). I quickly checked my email as I was expecting an important message regarding my re-entry permit into Indonesia. Basically, I'm waiting for my Indonesian counterpart to fax a letter to the Indonesian consulate in NY so that I can apply for this permit. There was, indeed, an email regarding this matter, relayed to me by a third party, that basically suggested that the delay was my fault, that my counterpart was waiting for me to contact the consulate. I emailed my request more than a month ago, and again 3 weeks ago, and again 2 weeks ago, etc., and never did this person mention he was waiting for me! So, here I have been waiting for this letter to arrive before I book my flight to Indonesia, as one does not want to be in the situation of having a ticket that can't be used because someone on the other side of the world is not attending to a pressing timeline (case in point). I only hope this situation has now been resolved and that this magical letter will arrive tomorrow, but only time will tell.

Now back to this morning's appointment. First of all, have you ever tried to take care of passport issues? The US government takes 10-12 weeks to do anything with a passport, and if you need expedited service, this takes 2-3 weeks and $60! Well, since I just got back from a trip to Germany, and had planned (and still hope) to leave next week, even this 2-3 weeks is not a fast enough. So, our generous government offers a third option if you are traveling within 2 weeks. You can call to make an appointment at a regional passport office. Would you believe that it took 3 days before I could even be connected to the automated appointment system?? And when I finally connected at 1:00 one morning, it took 3 separate calls before I had succeeded in finding an available date and making such an appointment, for this morning. Well, that was more than a week ago, and at that time I was confident that I would have purchased my ticket by today, since it is required to bring proof of travel (i.e., a ticket) in order to prove your need for this emergency expedited service. Although I could not provide this very important piece of evidence (see above), I was sure that I could explain the situation and exploit some loophole that must exist for others just like me, so I decided to go to my "appointment" anyway. I arrived at 8am to a line out the door, down the street, around the corner and half way down the block! After waiting on this line for 15 minutes, someone in line cleverly realized that those with 8am appointments didn't have to wait on this line, and were being allowed inside at that time. (I guess these pertinent announcements don't reach those waiting 1/4 mile away from the door!) I then waited on another line for about 30 more minutes before I made it to a woman sitting behind bullet-proof glass, who would be giving me a number. She asked for my confirmation number, which I happily provided, and then asked me for my ticket. She wasn't hearing anything I was saying and refused to give me a number or do anything at all with my passport until I could come back with a ticket. This means I will have to go through the entire appointment-making process and wait on a minimum of 2 horrible lines before I can get...ADDITIONAL PASSPORT PAGES! Yep, that's it. That's all I need. My passport is only 5 years old and I have just 2 little squares, a half of a page left unused, which is surely not enough, considering the consulate takes up an entire page for visas.

To summarize: I can't return to Indonesia without a re-entry permit. I can't get the permit until I have more pages added to my passport. I can't get more pages added to my passport until I buy a ticket. I can't buy a ticket until a letter is faxed from Indonesia to the consulate. And who knows when that's going to happen!

Other fun things that happened today: I got a letter yesterday stating that I was being subpoenaed as a juror, and that I must appear in court in the next 10 days or risk a $1000 fine and/or jail time. Why? Because they mailed me juror questionnaires while I was in Indonesia and I failed to respond! I learned that my current grant termed last month, meaning that the remaining funds cannot be spent. Too bad, since I was planning to use this money to purchase the aforementioned flight to Indonesia. Hopefully, this will be resolved, but when? Did I mention that I was hoping/planning to leave next week? And now I don't even have money! I do have another grant, which I requested as a cash advance a month ago. Still no sign of it.

Well, that's enough of that. Time to get back to the 3 grant proposals I have to finish before I leave for the field! Don't even ask about packing...

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Back to the future

I'm finally back in the land of planes, trains and automobiles after more than three months where everywhere I traveled was accessible by my own two feet! It's hard to imagine a more dramatic transition than leaving a small camp in the middle of the woods populated by the same 20 people week after week and moving back to one of the largest, busiest cities in the world. But the long journey home did help ease me back into "normal" life. As I hadn't left camp at all for 3 months, the hour hike and 2-hour boat ride to the closest village of Polipsioman was my first transition. There are ~500 residents in the village, meaning some new faces as well as a shop where I could practice being a consumer again (beer and cookies). I even went to church on Sunday! The next leg of my trip was a 2-hour speed boat ride to a slightly larger village with motorcycles, a cell phone tower and even "restaurants" (really, outdoor tarp-covered eating areas, but a place where I could buy food prepared by someone else—a real treat!). A few hours of relaxation and then I was on my way to Sumatra via ferry (I think I've described this one in enough detail), arriving in Padang just 10 hours later, where there was traffic, air pollution, internet, shopping malls, and most of life's modern conveniences. Despite these steady transitions, when I arrived in New York and got into a shouting match with a fellow passenger, I nevertheless experienced a little culture shock! In any case, I'm settling back into some kind of equilibrium here in the city until I have to pack up my life and do it all again in 2 months.

Now for the pictures...

First, the stars!!


The mysterious and intriguing simakobu


This is my favorite little guy that hangs out by my house


Here he is again, thinking about jumping on my house


Bad monkey! That's MY house!


One day they came to the river to play


Ridiculous things


This one is by the toilet


The one-and-only Hulk, my first habituated monkey


I climbed a tree!!




Using just ropes, carabiners and a harness, I ascended to a height of ~60 feet to get a monkey's-eye-view of the world. While the climb itself was pleasant enough, once I reached the small hand-made platform tied to the tree with no more than a few bits of rattan, I lost a bit of my confidence and held on for dear life for the duration of my stay (the monkeys make it look so easy).


I spent lots of time on the ground too.


A little alone time


My team: Aser (local guide), Edith (Indonesian student/assistant), me, Karta (local guide)


Matias and I sit and wait for the monkeys to come out of hiding



Saw some interesting things down there.


Snail without a shell?


Family of mystery insects (I really have no idea!)


Camo Katydid


Metal robot Cicada


Alien Cicada (it's dead, that's actually fungus growing on it)




Prehistoric Lizard


Tiny Toad




This one changed from brown to green before my eyes


Harmless snake


Not so harmless viper


Nearly stepped on one of these more times than I care to say


Squirrel, though not much to look at, it has a beautiful song


Macaque (local name Bokkoi)




Also spent a little time at camp.


Mama mia! I'm cooking pasta sauce!



My room, just like home


The Indonesian students, me and Nat


Emily (to my right), Edith (2nd from right) and I say goodbye to the cooks


Game night at Camp Pungut has everyone smiling!


The uma at night


Resident kitty, Tiger


Pak Tari and Pak Tarsan


Fauzan and I enjoy our veggies


Group photo!



Some randomly cool stuff.


Unbelievably huge and amazing moth


What's cooler than glowing mushrooms?


Full moon


Dead reticulated python, killed for eating a pig


Sunrise from the ferry



And the following is a list of creatures with which I cohabitated at one time or another:


  • A small colony of bats whose favorite sleeping site was directly over my bed. Despite a weeks-long battle involving me chasing them with a broom, shouting and yelling, I ended up putting a plastic bag on top of my mosquito net to keep my sheets and pillow clean.

  • A GIANT tokay gecko that, when I tried to catch it, barked and lunged at me, so it continued to live peacefully under my bed.
  • Several rats (or just one very persistent one) that only came out to visit at night.
  • A small colony of ants that tried to take up residence in my battery case. They had already moved all the kids in, but I urged them to find alternative housing options.
  • A very large spider carrying an egg sac in her mouth. She also tried to move into the battery case (high-demand real estate) but when I tried to evict her, she started gyrating and billions of tiny spiders ran for dear life!



  • A HUGE scorpion! This was not discovered until I was packing my things up on my last afternoon in camp. By far, the worst roommate I'd had until that point.
  • Countless other lizards and bugs stopped in for a night or two.


  • This one was actually in the toilet...


And there was that one time in the village.


A trip to the beach


Picnic!


Breathtaking sunset


Emily and I feeling cheesy


Polipsioman


Pak Tari makes fun of the vegetables I picked


Emily and I say bye to Pak Tari


And finally, Padang.


Batang Arau river in Padang


Old Dutch architecture


Padang (and a monkey) from above



Monkeys!! These are long-tailed macaques


Nat, Emily and I in awe of our surroundings


That's why!


Emily and I take a snorkeling trip


Here's where we parked